The Trials and Triumphs of Painting Miniatures. Part 1.
Painting With Gold
Gold is the colour of heroes, emperors, relics, and blasphemously baroque power armour. It's the high watermark of miniature painting: the detail transforming your army from "good enough" to "parade-ready."
But ask any hobbyist, and they’ll tell you the truth: painting gold is an art and a punishment.
You'll learn the difference between “shimmering metallic trim” and “gloopy nonsense that eats detail.” Below is an honest, detailed look at gold paints for miniatures, including some of Citadel’s lineup, Liquid Leaf, Vallejo Liquid Gold, Vallejo Metal Colour, Acryl Bright Gold, Turbo Dork, Green Stuff World, and more.
Every veteran painter will have their own idiosyncratic methods when it comes to painting with gold. Some especially skilled paint brush demi-gods won’t even use metallics at all, utilising instead the mythical and ultra skilled ways of non-metallic metallic painting, or witchcraft as I like to call it.
But for everyone else, and especially those of you just starting out in this wonderful, rewarding and time-eating hobby; let’s go through some of most common, (and one or two not-so-common), paints, their applications, pros/cons and how likely they are to cooperate with your desire to bling out your minis.
Citadel Golds: The Oldies But Goldies
Games Workshop’s Citadel range is where most of us start. Whether you’re painting Custodes, Stormcast Eternals, or giving your Space Marine Brother-Captain a fancy trim, Citadel golds are everywhere, ubiquitous, easily obtained, and just as easily spilled across your work desk, turning you into a reluctant, incontinent Midas
Some related information first though; Citadel paints are split into several categories, denoting the function of each one; Base, Layer, Technical, Shade, etc.
Here’s a breakdown of all the various paints so you don’t try to base-coat your new Orc boys sprues with a Shade instead of a Primer.
Base Paints
These are high-opacity paints designed for solid coverage in one or two coats. They're thicker and more pigmented so they can cover primers well, laying down your foundation color quickly. Examples: Retributor Armour, Macragge Blue.
Layer Paints
Thinner than base paints, layer paints are meant to be applied over a base to add highlights, colour variation, or subtle shading. They’re perfect for building up depth in multiple translucent layers. Examples: Auric Armour Gold, Evil Sunz Scarlet.
Shade Paints
Very thin, inky washes designed to flow into recesses and crevices, creating instant shading and depth. Often used over basecoats to quickly define detail. Examples: Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade.
Dry Paints
Thicker, waxy paints formulated for dry brushing—an easy technique to highlight raised details by dragging nearly dry paint over edges and textures. Examples: Golden Griffon, Necron Compound.
Technical Paints
Specialty paints for effects like mud, rust, cracked earth, glowing plasma, or gemstone finishes. They're made to achieve specific textures or looks that standard paints can’t do alone. Examples: Nihilakh Oxide, Typhus Corrosion.
Contrast Paints
Designed to deliver base, shade, and highlight in one coat over a light primer. They flow into recesses and tint raised areas in a single step—great for fast painting. Examples: Blood Angels Red, Skeleton Horde.
Air Paints
Pre-thinned for airbrush use, these maintain Citadel’s colour range while being ready to spray straight from the pot. Examples: Air Leadbelcher, Air Mephiston Red.
Contrast Paints
Contrast paints are Citadel’s innovative “one-step” solution designed to speed up painting while still delivering impressive results. These paints are formulated to be applied over a light-coloured primer (like Citadel’s Wraithbone or Grey Seer), where they flow into recesses to create natural shading while leaving the raised areas lighter and more vibrant.
Think of them as an all-in-one basecoat, shade, and highlight in a single application. For example, applying Blood Angels Red over Wraithbone will produce a rich red that’s darker in the recesses and brighter on edges—without extra layering or washing
Citadel Primers
Citadel Primers are Games Workshop’s dedicated line of undercoats, designed specifically for prepping Warhammer miniatures—whether it’s Space Marines, Orks, Chaos Knights, or Age of Sigmar armies. Their formulations aim to make painting easier by ensuring good adhesion, durability, and the right colour foundation for their own paint system. All Citadel spray can primers have a matte finish; flat, non-shinny.
Key Features:
✔️ Matte finish that holds acrylic paints well.
✔️ Even, smooth spray if used properly.
✔️ Colour-matched to Citadel’s painting system to simplify layering and shading.
✔️ Quick-drying, ready for painting in minutes under normal conditions.
Main Types and Colours:
Chaos Black Spray:
· Classic black primer.
· Ideal for dark schemes, metallics, and natural shading in recesses.
· Forgiving for missed spots—hides them in shadow.
· Excellent for grimdark 40K forces like Death Guard or Black Legion.
Corax White Spray:
· Pure white undercoat.
· Makes bright colours and lighter schemes pop.
· Slightly less forgiving; mistakes stand out.
· Good for vibrant Eldar, Imperial Fists, or Age of Sigmar armies with lots of bone and cloth.
Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray:
· Neutral mid-tone.
· Easy to build up with both light and dark layers.
· A solid all-rounder if you’re painting a range of units or experimenting with colours.
Wraithbone and Grey Seer Sprays:
· Specially formulated for Contrast Paints.
· Wraithbone: Warmer, creamy tone that enhances warm and vibrant Contrast shades.
· Grey Seer: Cooler, pale grey for more subtle, controlled Contrast results.
· Both give that perfect smooth finish Contrast needs to settle into recesses and highlight raised details naturally.
Colour Primers:
· Citadel occasionally releases coloured primers matched to main paint colours (e.g., Macragge Blue, Mephiston Red, and even Retributor Armour).
· Designed to let you skip a basecoat step by priming in your main armour colour.
· Great for batch-painting armies efficiently.
Practical Hobby Tip:
✅ Always shake the can thoroughly.
✅ Spray in light, even passes about 12 inches from the model.
✅ Ideal conditions are dry, mild, and well-ventilated to avoid frosting or pooling.
✅ Rotate the model to get all angles without oversaturating details.
In the Hobby Context:
Citadel Primers are built to integrate seamlessly with GW’s layered painting approach.
For Warhammer 40K and Age of Sigmar players, they’re a reliable, consistent choice that helps you get armies tabletop-ready faster while staying in the paint system’s “ecosystem.”
Whether you’re spraying a squad of Space Marines in Macragge Blue or prepping Age of Sigmar’s Sigmarite Warriors in Wraithbone for Contrast washes, Citadel’s primers are designed to give you predictable, solid results every time.
TL;DR:
Chaos Black is your go-to for dark, metallic, and weathered schemes.
Corax White is ideal for bright, poppy colour schemes with saturated topcoats.
Mechanicus Standard Grey is a neutral all-rounder that plays well with any palette.
Wraithbone and Grey Seer are essential for unlocking the best out of Contrast paints, each giving a different shading warmth.
The colour primers like Macragge Blue or Mephiston Red are made to skip base-coating entire armies and batch paint efficiently.
Retributor Armour Spray is a time-saver for bling-heavy armies where gold is the dominant colour.
Right, on to the Reviews; I've used 3D printed minis available from the Metis Minis store, and basecoated them all with a spray can of Retributor Armour.
Citadel Paints
Retributor Armour
Citadel’s standard Base gold paint for miniatures, and for good reason—it offers excellent one-coat coverage and a rich, warm metallic tone that perfectly suits everything from Space Marine trim to ornate Imperial relics, and it also comes as a spray can.
Its dense, creamy consistency can be both a blessing and a curse: straight from the pot it risks smothering fine detail but thinned slightly with water or medium it flows beautifully, laying down a solid, gleaming foundation for layered highlights like Auric Armour Gold or Liberator Gold.
Though it’s not the shiniest or most realistic gold on the market, Retributor Armour remains a workhorse in the Warhammer hobbyist’s toolkit, delivering reliable, consistent results that fit naturally with Citadel’s wash and highlight system, making it a staple for anyone painting Imperial icons or Sigmarite armour.
Retributor Armour. Please ignore my filthy desk.
Pros: Excellent single-coat coverage, perfect for Imperial designs and Sigmarite armour. Matches GW's washes seamlessly. The Grand Master of Citadel's gold paint range.
Cons: Thick; obscures detail if not thinned.
Airbrush Use:
Possible but...not elegant. Needs serious thinning with Citadel’s Lahmian Medium or airbrush thinner. Even then, be prepared for jams and clog. Best for large panels (think Land Raiders, not purity seals).
Practical Tip:
Always thin it a little, even for brush work. Two thin coats are better than one thick, detail-choking one. Or just use a citadel spray can of the stuff like I did.
Auric Armour Gold
Citadel’s designated “bling enhancer,” perfect for making your miniatures’ gold trim look just that bit fancier—because, obviously, Retributor Armour alone is for peasants.
It’s a bright, rich, yellow-toned layer paint that really shines when used over a solid base. Just don’t expect it to cover anything by itself; using it straight onto primer is like painting with slightly metallic water.
But when used properly to highlight Custodes armour, Space Marine trim, or your absurdly baroque Imperial Knight panels, it delivers that extra “notice me, Emperor” pop.
Essential for any painter who thinks “too much gold” isn’t even a concept.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Auric Armour Gold.
Pros: Warm, rich yellow-gold highlights perfectly on Retributor.
Cons: Transparent alone; very poor coverage. The above is THREE slightly thinned, (2:1), coats.
Airbrush Use:
Borderline viable. Needs heavy thinning. Better as a brush-on highlight for specific details like aquilas or decorative trim.
Practical Tip:
Use it to transition your gold highlights naturally. Think raised details on Custodes shields or Age of Sigmar relic weapons.
Liberator Gold
A Layer paint for adding cool-toned metallic highlights to Warhammer miniatures, perfect over solid bases like Retributor Armour for crisp, realistic edge accents.
Its thin, translucent formula excels at creating depth without obscuring detail, making it ideal for finishing touches on Custodes trim, Stormcast Eternals armour, and ornate relics.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Liberator Gold.
Pros: Cool, bright metallic for crisp edge highlights.
Cons: Transparent on its own. Serioulsy the above mini has two slightly, (2:1), thinned coats.
Airbrush Use:
Not recommended, as it is best suited for precise brush highlights and can be difficult to spray evenly.
Practical Tips:
Apply two thin coats over a solid metallic base to avoid streaking, and use sparingly on raised edges for maximum impact.
Stormhost Silver (Highlight Secret)
While not gold, this is the must-have highlight for any metallic work.
Citadel’s premium edge-highlight metallic, perfect for taking your gold (or any metallic) work to the next level.
It's also a fantastic base layer when painting helmet eyes lenses, scopes, sights and other reflective surfaces with technical paints like Waystone Green or Spirit Stone Red, but that's a story for another time and post.
With its ultra-bright, fine metallic flake, it delivers crisp, reflective highlights that make armour trim, weapons, and ornate details pop on the tabletop.
Used sparingly along edges and raised features, it gives the illusion of real light-catching metal—ideal for finishing touches on Custodes, Imperial Knights, and even Stormcast Eternals.
Just be careful not to overdo it; a little goes a long way, turning a good metallic finish into a striking, professional-looking centrepiece.
Use it to edge highlight gold areas.
Gives them a realistic, light-catching finish.
Works well on layered metallic schemes for Imperial Knights, Custodes, or your personal Chapter’s master-crafted weapons.
Pros: Superb ultra-bright edge highlights for realistic metal sheen.
Cons: Easy to overdo.
Airbrush Use:
Excellent for zenithal metallic effects over dark metallic bases.
Practical Tip:
Use sparingly on raised edges.
Balthasar Gold
Balthasar Gold is Citadel’s “aged heirloom” metallic, perfect for giving your miniatures a grim, ancient, and battle-worn vibe—because, let’s face it, shiny parade-ground gold is for fresh recruits who have not seen a real warzone.
It is a deep, dark, bronze-gold Base paint that lays down rich coverage in one or two coats, perfect over primer without the patchiness of some brighter metallics.
Just do not expect it to deliver flashy brilliance; it is all about that muted, burnished look that says your Imperial Knight or Chaos relic has survived centuries of carnage.
But when used properly on Mechanicus plating, Chaos iconography, or weather-beaten Imperial trim, it gives your minis that “forged in the fires of war” authority.
Essential for any painter who believes gold should look earned, not polished.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Balthasar Gold (?).
Pros: Excellent coverage with a dark, rich, bronze-gold tone that suits aged, gritty schemes.
Cons: Lacks the bright pop of traditional gold; can look too muted if overused. More of a burnt copper than a gold.
Airbrush Use:
Possible but thick—requires solid thinning. Best reserved for large panels or batch-coating bases before washes.
Practical Tip:
Shade with Agrax or Nuln to deepen the ancient feel, and use as a foundation before layering up with brighter metallics for contrast.
Hashut Copper
Hashut Copper is Citadel’s “fiery forge-born” metallic, perfect for when your miniatures need to look like they were hammered out in the depths of a Chaos Dwarf foundry—because ordinary gold just does not scream “Dark Pact with Hashut” enough.
It is a rich, red-tinged copper Layer paint that brings a warm, almost infernal glow when used over a solid metallic base.
Just do not try slapping it straight onto primer unless you enjoy painting with what feels like slightly metallic tea—it needs that strong underlayer to really shine.
But when used properly on Chaos Dwarf armour, Daemon weapons, or arcane machinery, it delivers that “unholy relic of the Dark Lands” pop.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Hashut Copper.
Pros: Warm, fiery copper tone with unique reddish richness for standout details.
Cons: Thin coverage alone; best layered over a solid base. More Copper than gold.
Airbrush Use:
Tricky—requires heavy thinning. Better as a brush-on layer for detail work or accents.
Practical Tip:
Apply over Balthasar Gold or black for depth, and shade with Reikland or Agrax for a truly hellish, corrupted finish.
Fulgurite Copper
Fulgurite Copper is Citadel’s “arcane lightning” metallic, perfect for when your miniatures need to look like they channel raw power from the warp or the forge, because plain gold just will not cut it for your tech-priest’s favourite relic.
It is a bright, brassy copper Layer paint with a sharp, eye-catching finish that really shines when used over a solid metallic base. Just do not expect it to cover bare primer, it's designed for layering, adding that electric pop of brassy brilliance to existing metallics.
But when used properly on Necron panels, Mechanicus conduits, or Chaos artefacts, it delivers that “ancient technology crackling with dangerous energy” vibe.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Fulgurite Copper.
Pros: Bright, brassy metallic tone perfect for adding standout details and energy-infused accents.
Cons: Slightly translucent; needs a solid base to avoid streakiness.
Airbrush Use:
Manageable with heavy thinning, but better suited to precise brush work for accents.
Practical Tip:
Layer over Balthasar Gold or black for rich depth, and finish with Stormhost Silver highlights to make details pop with gleaming intensity.
Turbo Dork: Turboshift Paints – Shifting Sands
Turbo Dork’s Turboshift Paint in Shifting Sands is the ultimate “look at me” metallic for painters who think regular gold is just too predictable, because nothing says “eldritch, alien, or arcane” quite like gold that refuses to stay one colour.
Shifting Sands is a colour-shift metallic that morphs from warm, rich gold to pale greenish bronze depending on the angle and light.
Just don't expect it to behave like standard golds; it needs a glossy black base to unlock its full sorcerous effect, and multiple thin coats are essential unless you want to watch it streak like a badly written Chaos prophecy.
But when used properly on Necron carapaces, daemon weapons, or magical artefacts, it delivers that “otherworldly, unexplainable power” finish that turns heads and starts conversations.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Turbo Dork: Turboshift: Shifting Sands.
Pros: Stunning, head-turning colour-shift effect perfect for alien or magical themes, IF THE LIGHT HITS IT JUST RIGHT.
Cons: Needs black gloss primer; multiple thin coats for best results. Can't really see the shifting of the sands tbh, but then again I did use a gold basecoat.
Airbrush Use:
Excellent—designed for smooth, even transitions with minimal fuss.
Practical Tip:
Build up in thin layers over a glossy black base, and seal with gloss varnish to maximise the shifting, dramatic finish.
Green Stuff World: Burning Gold (Colorshift Metal)
The paint for hobbyists who think traditional gold is just too boring, and want their miniatures to look like they were forged in the heart of a daemon-haunted furnace.
Burning Gold shifts dramatically from a blazing, fiery gold to a rich, coppery red depending on light and angle.
Do not even think about slapping it on bare primer; it demands a glossy black base to achieve its full, molten-metal magic, and like all prima donnas, it needs multiple thin coats to avoid streaks and let its colours dance.
But when used properly on Chaos artefacts, dragon scales, or baroque Warhammer centrepieces, it gives your models that “fresh from the forge” vibe that absolutely commands attention.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Green Stuff World: Colorshift: Burning Gold.
Pros: Spectacular colour-shift effect from hot gold to rich copper-red, ideal for fantasy and Chaos themes. Really stands out amongst the paints used today.
Cons: Needs a glossy black undercoat and careful layering; not beginner-friendly for quick basecoats.
Airbrush Use:
Fantastic—designed for smooth, even coverage with minimal fuss when sprayed.
Practical Tip:
Apply over a glossy black base in multiple thin coats, and seal with gloss varnish to really make that shifting, fiery finish stand out. OR just wang it through an airbrush onto a Retributor primed mini like I did.
Liquid Leaf: The Caviar of Gold Paints
The choice for painters who want their miniatures to look less like they were painted and more like they were actually gilded, because sometimes you just want your Custodes to shame real jewellery.
Florentine Liquid Leaf is my absolute favourite gold paint to use; a solvent-based metallic that delivers one-coat, mirror-bright, real-metal shine that makes acrylic golds feel like kids playing dress-up.
But this brilliance comes at a price: it will absolutely destroy unprepared brushes without mercy, cleanup requires dedicated Liquid Leaf Brush Bath, and it smells like the 1920s art studio your landlord warned you about.
But when used properly on Custodes armour, Imperial eagles, or any baroque Warhammer relic that deserves to look like treasure, it delivers an “actual relic of the Great Crusade” finish. Essential for painters ready to trade convenience for uncompromising, glorious shine.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Liquid Leaf Florentine.
Pros: Best-in-class one-coat coverage with an unmatched real-metal finish. Look at that gold flow!
Cons: Solvent-based; harsh smell; eats brushes without proper care. Fast drying, free flowing and deadly to your prized Windsor & Newton. Brush Bath is its only known antidote, and is just as magical in cleaning your brush, and a great many things besides.
Airbrush Use:
Absolutely not—unless you want to retire your airbrush permanently. No amount of thinning it with Brush Bath will prevent this alchemical potion from melting your airbrush's rubber seals, and clogging up its innards. It dries fast and hard.
Practical Tip:
Shake often while using to keep pigment suspended, and dedicate old natural-hair brushes to it, cleaning immediately with Liquid Leaf Brush Bath to avoid heartbreak.
Vallejo Liquid Gold: The Professional’s Choice
Seemingly forged by the Mechanicum of Mars in holy ceremony, because acrylic metallics just do not cut it when you want museum-quality shine.
This alcohol-based paint uses ultra-fine real-metal pigment to deliver an incredibly smooth, lustrous finish in shades like Old Gold, Rich Gold, and Red Gold.
It covers beautifully in one or two thin passes, even over dark bases, but it is not for the faint of heart: it dries lightning-fast, demands isopropyl alcohol for thinning and cleaning, and will chew through synthetic brushes like an Ork through squigs if you are careless.
But when used properly on Custodes armour, ornate banners, or any Warhammer centrepiece model, it delivers that “relic of the Imperium” richness no acrylic can match.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Vallejo Rich Gold.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Vallejo Red Gold.
Pros: Stunning, ultra-smooth real-metal finish with incredible depth and multiple shade options. (Rich Gold): bright, even gold, a little on the lighter side. (Red Gold): Slightly Coppery. Or shlightly Connery, if thats more your shpeed.
Cons: Needs isopropyl alcohol; dries fast; tough on brushes.
Airbrush Use:
Not recommended—alcohol base dries too quickly and will clog your airbrush instantly.
Practical Tip:
Thin small amounts with isopropyl alcohol and clean brushes immediately to keep your tools ready for the next masterpiece.
Vallejo Metal Colour: The Airbrush Workhorse
The airbrush workhorse of metallic paints, built for painters who want their gold to look professional, consistent, and ready for mass production, painting an entire Custodes army by hand should be classified as a crime, afterall.
This acrylic, water-based metallic range is designed to be airbrush-ready straight from the bottle, delivering smooth, self-levelling coverage without the chunky flakes or streakiness that plague cheaper metallics. Its gold shade lays down beautifully over a solid primer, especially black gloss, giving you that deep, realistic metallic sheen perfect for large panels, tanks, or batch-painting entire squads without losing your mind (or detail).
But when used properly on Imperial Knights, Custodes vehicles, or even Necron Monoliths, it delivers that “forged for the Emperor” finish with minimal fuss.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Vallejo Metal Colour.
Pros: Airbrush-ready acrylic formula, self-levelling, easy water cleanup, consistent smooth finish.
Cons: Slightly less brilliant than solvent-based metallics; needs solid base primer for best effect. Green/yellowish tinge.
Airbrush Use:
Absolutely; designed for it. Thin 10–20% with water or thinner if needed for flawless spraying.
Practical Tip:
Use black gloss primer for maximum shine and apply in controlled, even coats to avoid over-saturation while preserving crisp details.
Acryl Bright Gold: The Budget Solution
A great budget solution for miniature painters who want decent metallic coverage without needing to sell their soul (or their entire bitz box) to afford it.
This water-based craft-store staple offers straightforward, no-frills gold coverage that works surprisingly well for large surfaces, scenery, or base-coating vehicles when you do not want to waste your premium paints.
Do not expect the ultra-fine pigment or mirror shine of specialist hobby brands, it needs multiple thin coats to build opacity, and the flake size can vary, but for bulk projects it is a dependable workhorse that punches above its price tag.
But when used properly on Adeptus Mechanicus terrain, shrine details, or massive centrepieces you plan to weather and shade, it delivers that “good enough and budget-friendly” finish that keeps the hobby accessible.
(L) Retributor Armour, (R) Acryl Bright Gold.
Pros: Extremely affordable, easy water cleanup, decent shimmer with layering.
Cons: Needs multiple coats; inconsistent flake quality; not as brilliant or fine as premium paints. Very 'flat' as gold paint goes.
Airbrush Use:
Possible but challenging—requires heavy thinning and straining, best with larger 8mm needles.
Practical Tip:
Use for base-coating large areas before layering with better metallics, and always seal with varnish to protect your hard work.
Bonus Review: Liquid Leaf Brush Bath – The Brush-Saving Miracle
Liquid Leaf Brush Bath is the brush-saving miracle every painter needs if they dare to wield Liquid Leaf paints—the ultimate Techmarine upgrade for your paint station, because nothing hurts quite like watching your favourite Kolinsky Sable turn into a golden metallic porcupine.
This solvent-based cleaner is specifically formulated to dissolve and remove the brutal, fast-drying, solvent-heavy Liquid Leaf from your bristles, restoring them from hardened metallic horror to soft, usable tools.
Without Brush Bath, your expensive brushes will be screaming "Witness me!" as they dive straight into ruin after just one painting session.
But when used properly, dipping and swirling immediately after you've finished painting, it resurrects brushes with alarming ease, letting you get that “real gilded” finish without the heartbreak of losing your best tools.
Essential for anyone who wants to keep painting Liquid Leaf without regularly sacrificing their favourite brushes to the Emperor.
After a hard day of painting, treat your brush to a nice bath.
Pros: Instantly cleans even stubborn Liquid Leaf residue, doubles as a thinner for ultra-smooth application. Also compatible with standard acrylic cleaning methods, just don't thin your arylic painst with it.
Cons: Strong solvent smell—ventilation is a must. also compatible with standard acrylic cleaning methods.
Airbrush Use:
Do not even try it—Liquid Leaf and airbrushes are mortal enemies, and Brush Bath will not save you from that mistake.
Practical Tip:
Always keep a dedicated jar nearby, clean your brush immediately after use, and consider using older natural-hair brushes for Liquid Leaf work to preserve your best tools.
Final Thoughts: Choose Your Gold Wisely
Citadel: Accessible and modular. Retributor Armour in either pot or spray can is top of the Citadel pops, followed by Auric Armour. Each gold has its place and use though.
Liquid Leaf: Brilliant, solvent-based. I am biased; Florentine is my stand out favourite gold paint. Use it but don't abuse it.
Vallejo Liquid Gold: Real-metal pigment, professional finish. Rich Gold is great for highlights and trim, while Red Gold is perfect for painting ancient or baroque armour pieces to contrast another gold or red.
Vallejo Metal Colour: Airbrush king. Great coverage, rather flat though.
Acryl Bright Gold: Budget bulk workhorse. It's gold, Jim, but not as we know it.
Turbo Dork and Green Stuff World: Unique, magical colour shifts. If you can see it.
Green Stuff World Colorshift: Burning Gold: Bright, punchy, gold in direct light and shifts to reddish in the recesses. Love it. Makes your minis really POP on the table top.
Just pick wisely and keep those brushes clean.
This guide and review will be continually updated as I add more gold paints, so keep an eye out for new additions!
Happy painting!